Because organic mulches decompose, they must be replenished on a regular basis, but most landscape professionals prefer organic mulches because of the many benefits they bring to the soil. Various types of mulch materials do not decompose and therefore do not need to be replenished very often, if ever. These options include rock, stone, lava rock, crusher dust, pulverized rubber, landscape fabrics, and other man-made materials.
Inorganic mulches are ideal for decorative use and controlling weeds. Because rocks and stones absorb and reflect heat, they have the advantage of warming the soil for early spring planting of fruits and vegetables but can be detrimental to plants during periods of hot, dry weather.
Select one that best suits your landscaping project based on its local availability, cost, appearance, quality, and durability. Here are nine types of mulch that should be on your radar and when to use each. Both hardwood and softwood bark, chips, and nuggets—byproducts of the lumber and paper industries—are typically aged and dried, and sometimes even dyed red or black, then sold in bags.
Hardwood works best around trees, shrubs, and in perennial beds , while softwood typically made from pine should be reserved for use around large trees and shrubs.
Pine tends to be slightly more acidic and therefore takes longer to decompose than other organic mulches. Check with your local municipality before you head to the home improvement center; many offer freshly ground tree mulch to homeowners at no charge. This fresh material is neither dried or aged, so use it only for walkways, as it leaches large amounts of nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes.
Clean wheat, barley, or oat straw is ideal for lightly mulching newly seeded lawns. Hardwood and bark mulches can even help your soil quality as they break down over time.
Finally, mulch can provide a softer landing around swing sets, slides, playhouses, and other outdoor structures for kids. The question of bagged or bulk mulch largely comes down to quantity and convenience. If you need to mulch a large area and have somewhere to pile your mulch, bulk is likely the best option. It comes in standard quantities and many of the same varieties as bulk mulch. You can also store extra bagged mulch in a cool, dry location until the next year if you have any left over.
Both types have unique benefits that make them better for some areas than others. Hardwood and bark mulch are both common gardening choices. They can be dyed usually black or red or left their natural dark brown color. Since water can't permeate plastic, you can't rely on rainwater to properly hydrate your plants. Instead, lay soaker hoses or drip hoses on the soil surface before you put down the plastic.
Be careful not to use mulch under shrubs, especially since plastic destroys the shrubs' long-term health. Because water and air cannot penetrate the plastic, roots grow very close to the soil surface — sometimes right beneath the plastic — seeking moisture and oxygen. The shallow roots suffer from lack of oxygen and moisture, and extreme temperature changes.
Over time, the plants decline and die. Geotextiles , also called landscape fabrics, let air and water through to the soil beneath while keeping weeds from coming up. But still, there are some drawbacks: When exposed to light, geotextiles degrade over time. To make them last longer, cover them with a second mulch they're ugly, so you'd want to, anyway. Similar to plastic mulch, keep geotextiles away from shrubs. Shrub roots and weeds grow up into the landscape fabric, which means you'll have to rip the landscape fabric upon their removal.
There are two cardinal rules for using mulch to combat weeds. First, lay the mulch down on soil that is already weeded, and second, lay down a thick-enough layer to discourage new weeds from coming up through it. A four-inch layer of mulch will discourage weeds, although a two-inch layer is usually enough in shady spots. If you know that a garden bed is filled with weed seeds or perennial roots, try a double-mulching technique to prevent a weed explosion. To do so, set plants in place, water them well, spread newspaper, and top it with mulch.
Mulches that also retains moisture like wood chips can slow soil warming. In spring, pull mulch away from perennials and bulbs for faster growth. A wet mulch piled against the stems of flowers and vegetables can cause them to rot; keep mulch about one inch away from crowns and stems. Mulch piled up against woody stems of shrubs and trees can also cause rot and encourages rodents such as voles and mice to nest there.
Living Mulch — What is a living mulch?. It could be a ground-hugging plant, like creeping thyme or phlox, or a cover crop, like vetch or clover. Living mulch — particularly cover crops — offer a host of benefits to soil health. These options protect the soil surface, and they can outcompete and shade out weeds too. Dyed Mulch — By now, you know the risks presented by dyed mulch.
The color of these dyed mulches may last all year, but you and your plants may also be exposed to any chemicals from the treated wood these products contain. It offers no benefits to your soil. It can inhibit water infiltration and increase soil temperatures.
In fact, there are more potential drawbacks to using plastic sheeting than there are benefits. Plus — may I add that we should all be looking for ways to use less plastic in our lives, not more? There was a time when I said that rubber mulch might be appropriate for pathways or playgrounds, but not anymore. They degrade in the heat of the sun over time and leach chemicals into the surrounding area in the process. You could argue that these mulches are worthwhile because they are a recycling byproduct.
There are a lot of misconceptions out there — even in the landscaping industry. That said, spread mulch too thickly, and you create new problems. When mulch is too thick it can actually prevent water from reaching the soil. It can also smother your plants. This leads me to one of my ultimate gardening pet peeves — mulch volcanoes. A mulch volcano is the result of an enormous heap of mulch being piled around the trunk of a tree — oftentimes, over a foot deep — and tapered out to the drip line or lawn border.
Have you ever seen this? This mulch volcano not to mention the tree topping are putting the long term health of these trees at great risk. These trees will likely die long before their time. Mulch right up against a trunk creates a pathway for pests and diseases and can promote rot. A mulch volcano also covers the root flare of the tree. Trees are healthiest when their root flares are exposed, so for the sake of the longevity of your expensive trees, never cover the root flare with mulch or soil.
Many trees have been killed thanks to mulch volcanoes. Mulch beneath trees and shrubs should be spread at least as far as the drip line the furthest outer reach of the foliage. I often hear questions when it comes to mulching over newly-sown areas. If you do feel inclined to mulch over seeded areas, a very light sprinkling of hay, straw or especially dried grass clippings is just the ticket.
Mulch should never be piled up over the root flare and around the trunk of a tree. As the plants mature to a height of a few inches, I gently push the mulch back around the area for the rest of the season. If you want to make it easy on yourself, add compost or fertilizer directly over the mulch layer. Over time, water from irrigation and rain will wash the nutrients through the mulch and down to the soil. There is nothing wrong with this approach.
I prefer to pull the mulch layer back and out of the way unless the mulch is mostly decomposed. Direct contact with the soil allows the compost to provide results more quickly to the overall health of the bed. What about using compost as mulch?
However, compost is so valuable and can be more expensive or less readily-available than mulch. The best use of compost is to add it as an amendment and, then, to cover and protect it with a layer of another natural mulch material.
They each have their place, and they really do go hand in hand for a successful garden. This is a young tree, so the overall newly-mulched area out to the young drip line is small.
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